Monday, October 19, 2009

La Cabalgata


On Friday we went to Con Con (a beachy section of town to the North) for a Cabalgata (horseback riding.) I’m going to admit that I thought it’d be lame (my reasoning based on the few times I’ve been on a horse and the week of horse camp that I did when I was 8) but it most definitely was not. As we got our horses and started the trail ride, my horse made it clear that he was not up for being ridden and began fighting with the other horses by getting too close and nipping at them. So they changed my horse. 

Now, I don’t have a lot of horseback technical skills. I can sit on top and steer one direction or the other, presuming the horse is walking slowly and calmly. So when my horse took off galloping away from the group (with me perched on top), I had no idea what to do. I pulled on the reins and leaned back and “Whoooaaaa”-ed by every thing I tried seemed to just encourage her to go faster. We went speeding over a sand dune and into a corner of bushes. I breathed a sign of relief when we stopped and began to try to encourage my horse to turn back to the group. She had other plans. She turned toward the wall of bushes (which towered over my head) and plowed straight through. All that my group could hear was me yelling, followed by leaves rustling and twigs breaking as we went tromping through the wall. Forgive this Harry Potter reference but I felt as though I had been through platform 9 ¾. Once through the bushes we sped towards a river, splashed through it at top speed, and finally slowed to a trot. I remember being at Girl Scout camp when I cantered on a horse for the first time, quite on accident. I had been surprised and terrified, and the counselors made a big deal about it (as counselors do.) Here I was, galloping for the first time, out of control, but it was seen as no big deal.

We switched my horse again (the guide’s recommendation.) The third horse was wonderful and speedy. As we continued walking along the dunes, the setting transformed into a scene from Aladdin. Sand blew down the dunes in ripples and our horses galloped through the sand as if we were chasing 40 thieves or escaping The Mummy. We reached the beach: beautiful blue waters and seagulls flying everywhere. To ride along the beach is spectacular; the wind blowing, waves crashing, sun at your back. It was practically out of a movie. Our horses galloped along, going as fast as they wished along the entire stretch of beach. 

My new favorite moment in riding a horse is the transition from trot to gallop. Trotting is no fun at all. Your bum bangs on the saddle and you can feel every bit of skin and fat heaving up and down. But breaking into a gallop is like taking off in a plane. All of a sudden everything is smooth and your moving with the horse. With each stride I was terrified of falling off, holding on for dear life, and exhilarated all at once. Derek pointed out that we consistently are throwing ourselves into activities that we are maybe not quite ready for (snowboarding, horseback riding, etc...) Hah!

Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Friends, finally.

Renee, Francisco, Pablo, Pancho, Lindsey, Catie, Ashley, Mia, Me, Lindsey

It's the first week of month number 3 and I officially have 11 friends! Normally I would think, How sad... but making actual Chilean friends in Chile has proven to be more difficult that I thought. BUT ever since the ball got rolling, now I have things to do all the time and people to be with! Fantastic! Francisco (aka Pancho), Francisco, and Pablo are some of my closest friends here... they took us to a beautiful beach/lake called Laguna Verde which is completely untouched, uninhabited, and pretty much just virgin. I wish you all could appreciate with your own eyes how beautiful it is.

There's this cove of bright blue water surrounded by rocks and seagulls and mountains. And then, a small lake (lagoon, I guess you'd say) that is bright clear, like looking into an old green bottle. We're going back there in a few weeks to camp. Fabulous. 

Saturday, September 26, 2009

Faces

I've come to the conclusion that there must be the face or the essence of everyone you know, everywhere you go. Each day I live here in Chile I think to myself, "I wonder who I'll see today?" For example, the other day Brad Zabel drove up my street. I've seen Daniel Massoglia on the metro and I traveled around Peru with a mixture of Haley and Katja. It's so interesting to me how the brain works this way, relating everything new to what it already knows. It's both an instigator and a cure for homesickness. On the one hand, I see people I think I know and wish I could be home with the freedom to run up to them and shout loudly into their ears "Hey how are you doing?!" And on the other hand, why miss home when everyone I know is right here with me in Chile in spirit and in remembrance. This is my time to be here and to do the things I can't do in the States, like walk to the beach and read, or have lunch for hours with my host family, talking about every topic under the sun. Seeing this illusion all the time is a fun game, but it's also like I'm being told, "We're all here with you, now go on." I think that these faces are what is getting me, and what will get me through being a year abroad. 

Monday, September 21, 2009

More thoughts on Peru


When I crossed the Peru/Chile border, the change was immediate. The people were clearly from an indigenous line, the currency was in soles, the time flew backward an hour (unbeknownst to us.) I was so struck with how open, warm, and welcoming the country was. I didn't feel like people gawked at me like they do in Chile. Los Peruanos (Peruvians) speak English so much more clearly than Chileans (In English, compare a southern accent with a crisp Indian accent.) All of a sudden, I could understand everything everyone said without feeling like I was putting the common people out of their way. And they were so nice and smiley! 
In Peru my group seemed to always be on the go, and therefore we did get to see a lot of places. I think our final transportation count was around 16 or 17 buses, 11 taxis, 2 minibuses, 2 planes, 1 train, and lots and lots of walking. 

In  Aguas Calientes we woke up at 3:15 am to hike up to Machu Picchu. 
We didn't exactly know what we were getting ourselves into. We walked down (guided by my headlamp) to the beginning of the 15ish (more?) s-curves which led up to the mountain to MP. We climbed what seemed like a million steep rock steps in the dark. There was wheezing, sweating, and some complaining, but this was only a warm-up to our day. At 5:30am we arrived at MP's gates. I was number 38 out of the first 400 people to be allowed in to climb Wayna picchu (the tall mountain towering over the ruins in all of the famous pictures of Machu Picchu.) Wayna picchu was truly a test of strength and character. 

We started by climbing another never-ending set of steep rock stairs that hugs the side of the tremendous mountain. The stairs had a width of about 4 feet, sometimes without a handrail (Mom, this isn't for you.) We could choose to go straight up to the top, or to go down to the "Great Cave" (not a cave.) and then go back up to the top. We thought, "Neat." so down we went, not realizing that this cavern
would take us nearly back down to ground level, losing nearly all of the previous advancement we'd made on climbing to the top.We finally got down to the cave, which was a rock undercut with piles of pebbles underneath. The view was gorgeous, as always. Mountains, ridges, and peaks coated in a lush green and highlighted by a bright blue sky. We sat and ate some chirimoyas for a while (a fruit.) Then we started our ascent back up the mountain, which at this point was pretty much straight up. But somehow, it didn't feel especially difficult. Our legs and backs were tired, but not exhausted, It was like we were on autopilot. Reaching the top of Qaynapicchu was like gasping deeply and holding the air in your chest. We had a 360 degree view of Peru, her mountains, and the ruins of Machu Picchu. 
One thing we noticed was how we couldn't see a single house or building in the huge expanse of mountains all around us. The only signs of human life were the ruins, the road to MP, 
and the hydroelectric plant, which wasn't even a huge eyesore. No sign of mountaintop removal, no summer homes, no electrical lines, just pure vegetation and greenery. Hiking back down was hard on the kneeds but definitely rewarding. I wasn't able to find a worthy copy of "The Heights of Machu Picchu" by Pablo Neruda, but I wrote my own little entry. Here it is:

"I am absolutely in awe of the beauty, the intricacy, and the architecture of this place. Surrounding me on all sides are towering mountains of greens, grays, whites. It looks as if this land's creator decided to drape moss over every peak and groove, giving the effect of having spread thick green icing on a cake. And suddenly from the mountains appears this amazing labyrinth of stones. Stones piled, stacked upon stones. I climbed Waynapicchu. I have never before climbed so many stairs. But each stair solidified my thoughts and satisfactions for actually having made it to this stoney, grassy paradise. We couldn't have picked a better day to come, but in hindsight, MP requires two trips. One for Waynapicchu, and one for Machu. I wish I could have a tour of these ruins so that I could understand a little about Incan history. There are so many rooms, windows, and stairs. This place is just such a mystery as far as why it's here, how the Incans lived. I could just stand here and stare at these mountains all day long. Machu Picchu seems to be the perfect mix of nature and man-made figures."

On our way to Cuzco from Aguas Calientes, we decided to walk along the railroad tracks (free instead of paying another $70 to take the train) for 3 hours. Best decision ever. We had so much time to reflect, walk, and gawk at the mountains above us and the river (Rio Vilcanota) to our left. We even 
had some time for a swim!

In our hostel in Cuzco, we happened to flip the TV to The Emperor's New Groove. We watched Cuzco in Cuzco! Hah! Also, we made a friend (Rachel, here with me eating a strange fruit that was like white-hair covered seeds in a pea-pod... they were like eating sweet slimy cotton candy.)

New foods I tried in Peru: Alpaca, guinea pig, some type of hard boiled birds eggs with spicy sauce (SAUCE!) -- Quail-like?, pea pod fruit, raison tamales, goat cheese. 

SUDDEN THOUGHT! The Decemberists (one of my favorite and relatively bands) are playing on our radio right now!!!! Congratulations Decemberists! You've made it to Chile! (My friends and Haley will appreciate this comment.)
(This is how the indigenous Peruvian women all hold their babies, like papooses on their backs. I bought a belt from her.)

Sunday, September 20, 2009

Oh the Glories of Peru!

Coca tea for high altitude sickness
Watching the condors in Colca Canyon at Cruz del Condor (6 ft wingspan!)
Machu Picchu Ruins!
Machu Picchu! See that mountain towering over? That's Wayna Picchu. I hiked that.

I'm home from Peru after traveling to Machu Picchu, and may I just say that Peru is the most beautiful country I have ever seen. Granted, I have only seen a total of 4 countries in my life. But oh my goodness, I am in love with Peru. I'll say a little bit more about my trip when I have more time to post, but here are some of my favorite pictures from the trip.


Tuesday, September 8, 2009

Machu Picchu!!

I leave for Machu Picchu, Peru tomorrow for 8 days! What an adventure, I can't wait!!!

Here's a rough sketch of my itinerary if you care to follow along with me:

Wednesday, Sept. 9th 9:30pm: Bus from Vina to Santiago, wait in airport for a long, long, long time.

Thursday, Sept. 10th 4am-6:40am: Flight from Santiago to Arica (north Chile)
Buses crossing the border, from Arica to Tacna, to Arequipa, to Cuzco, Peru

Friday, Sept. 11th 7am-11am: Train from Cuzco to Aguas Calientes
Bus from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu, hostel in Machu Picchu

Saturday, Sept. 12th: Stay in Machu Picchu, hike it, dance around, recite From the Heights of Macchu Picchu, by Pablo Neruda (look it up, now

Sunday, Sept. 13th: Bus from Santa Theresa to Cuzco, hostel it up in Cuzco

Monday, Sept. 14th: Bus from Cuzco to Arequipa

Tuesday, Sept. 14th-Thursday, Sept. 17th: Live with Indigenous Andians

Thursday, Sept. 17th: 4pm-9pm Bus from Arequipa to Tacna, from Tacna (Peru) to Arica (Chile)

Friday, Sept 18th: 1am-3:40am: Flight from Arica to Santiago
Bus from Santiago to Vina del Mar!

And then we exhaustedly will enjoy Chile's independence day, Sept. 18th!!

For those of you who have no idea what Macchu Picchu is, here are some pictures, soon to be followed by my own, if my camera is not stolen:



Alpaca! Boy oh boy oh boy.

Friday, September 4, 2009

Galletas!

Me and Fernanda


The First Batch (Flaites--word for ghetto, cheap,poor)


Finally!

Renee and I decided to make Nestle Tollhouse cookies as a treat for our host families. It was pretty hard though because no one here cooks with measuring cups. The first batch had way too much butter and not enough flour. The next batches were tasty though!! Renee's seven-year-old host sister Fernanda helped us by stirring (tried to help with a lot more but somethings, like cracking eggs, maybe shouldn't be done by impatient youngin's who are only interested in eating batter.)