More thoughts on Peru

When I crossed the Peru/Chile border, the change was immediate. The people were clearly from an indigenous line, the currency was in soles, the time flew backward an hour (unbeknownst to us.) I was so struck with how open, warm, and welcoming the country was. I didn't feel like people gawked at me like they do in Chile. Los Peruanos (Peruvians) speak English so much more clearly than Chileans (In English, compare a southern accent with a crisp Indian accent.) All of a sudden, I could understand everything everyone said without feeling like I was putting the common people out of their way. And they were so nice and smiley! 

In Peru my group seemed to always be on the go, and therefore we did get to see a lot of places. I think our final transportation count was around 16 or 17 buses, 11 taxis, 2 minibuses, 2 planes, 1 train, and lots and lots of walking. 

In  Aguas Calientes we woke up at 3:15 am to hike up to Machu Picchu. 

We didn't exactly know what we were getting ourselves into. We walked down (guided by my headlamp) to the beginning of the 15ish (more?) s-curves which led up to the mountain to MP. We climbed what seemed like a million steep rock steps in the dark. There was wheezing, sweating, and some complaining, but this was only a warm-up to our day. At 5:30am we arrived at MP's gates. I was number 38 out of the first 400 people to be allowed in to climb Wayna picchu (the tall mountain towering over the ruins in all of the famous pictures of Machu Picchu.) Wayna picchu was truly a test of strength and character. 

We started by climbing another never-ending set of steep rock stairs that hugs the side of the tremendous mountain. The stairs had a width of about 4 feet, sometimes without a handrail (Mom, this isn't for you.) We could choose to go straight up to the top, or to go down to the "Great Cave" (not a cave.) and then go back up to the top. We thought, "Neat." so down we went, not realizing that this cavern

would take us nearly back down to ground level, losing nearly all of the previous advancement we'd made on climbing to the top.We finally got down to the cave, which was a rock undercut with piles of pebbles underneath. The view was gorgeous, as always. Mountains, ridges, and peaks coated in a lush green and highlighted by a bright blue sky. We sat and ate some chirimoyas for a while (a fruit.) Then we started our ascent back up the mountain, which at this point was pretty much straight up. But somehow, it didn't feel especially difficult. Our legs and backs were tired, but not exhausted, It was like we were on autopilot. Reaching the top of Qaynapicchu was like gasping deeply and holding the air in your chest. We had a 360 degree view of Peru, her mountains, and the ruins of Machu Picchu. 

One thing we noticed was how we couldn't see a single house or building in the huge expanse of mountains all around us. The only signs of human life were the ruins, the road to MP, 

and the hydroelectric plant, which wasn't even a huge eyesore. No sign of mountaintop removal, no summer homes, no electrical lines, just pure vegetation and greenery. Hiking back down was hard on the kneeds but definitely rewarding. I wasn't able to find a worthy copy of "The Heights of Machu Picchu" by Pablo Neruda, but I wrote my own little entry. Here it is:

"I am absolutely in awe of the beauty, the intricacy, and the architecture of this place. Surrounding me on all sides are towering mountains of greens, grays, whites. It looks as if this land's creator decided to drape moss over every peak and groove, giving the effect of having spread thick green icing on a cake. And suddenly from the mountains appears this amazing labyrinth of stones. Stones piled, stacked upon stones. I climbed Waynapicchu. I have never before climbed so many stairs. But each stair solidified my thoughts and satisfactions for actually having made it to this stoney, grassy paradise. We couldn't have picked a better day to come, but in hindsight, MP requires two trips. One for Waynapicchu, and one for Machu. I wish I could have a tour of these ruins so that I could understand a little about Incan history. There are so many rooms, windows, and stairs. This place is just such a mystery as far as why it's here, how the Incans lived. I could just stand here and stare at these mountains all day long. Machu Picchu seems to be the perfect mix of nature and man-made figures."

On our way to Cuzco from Aguas Calientes, we decided to walk along the railroad tracks (free instead of paying another $70 to take the train) for 3 hours. Best decision ever. We had so much time to reflect, walk, and gawk at the mountains above us and the river (Rio Vilcanota) to our left. We even 

had some time for a swim!

In our hostel in Cuzco, we happened to flip the TV to The Emperor's New Groove. We watched Cuzco in Cuzco! Hah! Also, we made a friend (Rachel, here with me eating a strange fruit that was like white-hair covered seeds in a pea-pod... they were like eating sweet slimy cotton candy.)

New foods I tried in Peru: Alpaca, guinea pig, some type of hard boiled birds eggs with spicy sauce (SAUCE!) -- Quail-like?, pea pod fruit, raison tamales, goat cheese. 

SUDDEN THOUGHT! The Decemberists (one of my favorite and relatively bands) are playing on our radio right now!!!! Congratulations Decemberists! You've made it to Chile! (My friends and Haley will appreciate this comment.)

(This is how the indigenous Peruvian women all hold their babies, like papooses on their backs. I bought a belt from her.)